Service Tools

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Cable Oiler

This is the only sensible way to oil control cables.

The tool's rubber boot with the small end grips the inner wire of the cable whilst the outter is gripped by the other end. The screw is tightened up which ensures a seal around both ends. The straw of your lightweight oil aerosol (WD40 or equivilent) is pushed into the small hole in the bottom of the tool. When the button on the aerosol is pressed oil is forced into the void between the inner and outer parts of the cable. Keep going until oil is seen dribbling out the other end. Remove the tool and pull the inner cable in and out a bit. Job Done!

To see how it works in operation see the example in the photo of the two screw lubricator below.

Price: £5.99 (Excluding VAT at 20%)

Quantity:

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People who bought this item also bought:

1. Neoprene Fuel Hose

2. Quick-Release Fuel Line Coupler

3. In-Line Fuel Filter

Two Screw Cable Oiler

Two screw version similar to the above cable lubricator.

The tool's rubber boot with the small end grips the inner wire of the cable whilst the outter is gripped by the other end. The screw is tightened up which ensures a seal around both ends. The straw of your lightweight oil aerosol (WD40 or equivilent) is pushed into the small hole in the bottom of the tool. When the button on the aerosol is pressed oil is forced into the void between the inner and outer parts of the cable. Keep going until oil is seen dribbling out the other end. Remove the tool and pull the inner cable in and out a bit. .

Job Done!

On the example in the photo we used a throttle cable where it had to be gripped by the threaded section, though if there is an option, it is better to grip on the outer cable body or ferule

Price: £6.99 (Excluding VAT at 20%)

Quantity:

Click for larger image

People who bought this item also bought:

1. PVC Sleeving

2. 1mm² Thin Wall Cable

3. Bike-It Chain Spring-Link Pliers

Oil Change Drain Pan

This is a very well made oil pan. We have been using this model for some years in our own workshop and it has been great. It's really well made, is shallow enough to get under all the bikes we've worked on, including our Harleys and has a really useful rolled edge which means the oil tends to stay in it when you move it around, rather than jumping out. It has handles front and back, which makes life easy when dragging it out from some low to the ground cruiser.

Although it's a bit of a fag, we always clean it out when we've tipped the contents out. This isn't because we're really tidy (those who've seen our videos know better :) ), but you should always drain a sump into a clean tray, so that you can see if there is any crap in the oil; if your oil pan is already filled with foreign objects you won't know if they're from your bike or just general workshop shi...detritus.

Price: £12.59 (Excluding VAT at 20%)

Quantity:

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Electronic Brake Fluid Tester

This is a tool we have only just discovered ourselves; and we are bowled over by it. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means that it absorbs water. If it has more than a few percent of water it should be changed. But how do you tell? Obviously with one of these testers! If in doubt change it; it's not that expensive. Water in the brake fluid will corrode the working parts of your braking system, which isn't a good thing! The most common problem is that the aluminium of the caliper, behind the piston seal corrodes and pushes the seal too tightly against the piston which means that you need more pressure to move the piston against the pads. This effectively reduces your braking efficiency and will eventually sieze the caliper altogether. Another issue with water in the fluid is that as the brakes are applied the friction makes them heat up and as water only reaches 100°C before boiling, the water in the fluid turns into steam making the fluid compressible and further reducing the efficiency of the brakes. As bikers, we are vulnerable enough at the hands of car drivers who seem hell bent on killing us off as a race, without having iffy brakes!